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Olivia Rodrigo may only be 23, but the pop star knows exactly who she is. The young singer has been vocal about supporting women’s rights since she was a teenager, and recently held the inaugural Daisy Chain Fields music festival — inspired by Sarah McLachlan’s Lilith Fair — raising $20 million USD for women’s charities. During a press conference for the festival, where she announced an initial $10 USD million donation, Rodrigo made waves by stepping out in a Palestinian-designed dress by Nöl Collective. At a time when Palestine is suffering under Israeli occupation, wearing a garment made on the ground with symbols of freedom on it was a strong statement.
“It helped say, ‘We are still here; we have not been forgotten’,” designer and founder Yasmeen Mjalli tells Refinery29. “It meant the world to us.” Mjalli isn’t sure how Rodrigo or her team discovered their fashion brand, but says they were honoured to be chosen, and stayed in contact with her team throughout the process. While the singer’s team suggested some general ideas for the silhouette that aligned with her classic style and the colour pink, Nöl Collective were given more free rein than one might imagine. “We had a lot of creative freedom in the details, such as the shade of pink — a soft and dusty rose — the type of material we use[d], raw silk, [and] details like the flutter sleeves, frilled neckline, the embroidery motifs and the embroidery colours,” the designer explains. “It was so much fun to be given the creative freedom to bring something to life that honoured Olivia’s style while also reflecting our own identity.”
The symbols on the dress are also more than just decoration. While the garment is beautiful, Nöl Collective knows the power that Palestinian embroidery can hold; representing a political reality, the natural world, and our dreams. The design house chose specific motifs to tie into Rodrigo’s ethos and what she stands for. “The flowers spoke to the theme of the Daisy Chain Fields festival. Flowers are incredibly important in our world; they decorate the land after rains, [provide] beauty after a storm, [support] ecosystems, [feed] wildlife, and sometimes [contain] medicinal properties,” Mjalli says. “In this particular instance, the daisy chain symbolizes the power of a united world in the face of adversity.” The dusty rose dress also featured embroidered birds, a clear representation of freedom — not just for Palestinians, but for all those who need it around the world.
It helped say, ‘We are still here; we have not been forgotten’.
Yasmeen Mjalli On olivia rodrigo choosing Nöl Collective To Design Her DressNöl Collective’s garments are handmade in Jerusalem, Gaza, Ramallah, and Bethlehem, and the fashion brand places a strong emphasis on showcasing the entire process. Mjalli knows fashion is inherently political, regardless of where a garment is made. “70% of garment workers in the world are women; it’s a women’s rights issue,” she says. “[And] because fashion has unfathomably detrimental effects on the environment, it’s also an environmental issue.” Fast fashion has been widely criticized for human rights violations and environmental impact, but it’s so easy for consumers to compartmentalize or ignore these issues.
“When you show how the garment is made, you humanize the process and close the gap that separates the consumer from the creator. The hope is that people are more mindful when buying because they can see how much time, labor and love go into a garment,” the designer explains. “We hope that for every garment we put out in the world, you can picture the hands of the women who made them — the same hands which brush hair, pick fruit, and hold children and grandchildren.”
It’s impossible to talk about Nöl Collective without acknowledging the impact the Israeli occupation has had on them. For Mjalli, it’s incredibly hard to put into words how difficult the process of creating garments has been. Moving between cities and towns now takes much longer due to military checkpoints, shipping orders is challenging due to border closures, and customs can destroy shipments at their discretion.
It was so much fun to be given the creative freedom to bring something to life that honored Olivia’s style while also reflecting our own identity.
Nöl Collective founder Yasmeen MjalliThe fashion house uses natural fibres that it is unable to source locally, so it relies on shipments from overseas. Last week, a large shipment of naturally dyed and hand-woven wools from Indian artisans was rejected. “[It was] destroyed last week, simply because of who we are. This was devastating, because our production had already been delayed for months, meaning the collection would be released much later than needed,” the founder says. “We still had to pay the cost of shipping and for the fabric itself because the artisans still need to be paid for their labor, and then we still needed to buy replacement fabric.” The fashion house ended up having to start a GoFundMe to cover the excess costs because fashion and art matter, and it’s a form of resistance to keep going.
Mjalli wants people to understand how vital it is to support Palestinian businesses, especially those on the ground. “We are creating under impossible circumstances,” she says. “Every day, a door slams shut in our face, and we keep searching until we find another door to keep going. So many talented artisans here don’t get a chance, so supporting artisanal work on the ground here can profoundly impact the community.”
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Throwing on a bold layering piece is, often, all it takes to make a good outfit great and the timely resurgence of the Napoleon jacket — complete with epaulettes and columns of oversized buttons — among popular trends for 2026 just confirms it.
Despite the summer season still underway, I can’t help but notice the faint chill in the air when the sun goes down, which means colder weather is right around the corner and it’s time to start thinking about fall and winter wardrobes. If you’re like me, and prefer to keep your daily uniform easy yet elevated (think, some iteration of denim and a plain tee), then introducing something a little more festive into the mix as the temperature drops can make all the difference, especially when you want a little more flair.
Of course, the military jacket is nothing new and has been through its fair share of trend cycles, coming out on the other end more powerful than before. Named after 19th-century French military leader Napoleon Bonaparte, the cropped uniform silhouette has since been adopted by the style set, with Yves Saint Laurent leading the way in the late 1960s. By the ’90s, Jean Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler were among some of the big names to put their own spin on the look.
Cultural icons like Michael Jackson and supermodel Kate Moss also began to embrace the trend, with the former making it an integral part of his stage presence. This only further cemented the jacket’s status within the fashion industry. Today, it’s defined by a strongly defined shoulder, navy, gold, white, and red color combos, and, of course, round embossed buttons (functional or not).
Aside from the likes of Alexander McQueen and Ann Demeulemeester, who have been designing Napoleon jackets for decades, the last few seasons have seen a noticeable influx of brands, big and small, who are influenced by military uniforms. According to fashion psychologist Shakaila Forbes-Bell, this is always a sign of the times, as well as the industry’s current obsession with the indie sleaze aesthetic. “People like to use their style as a way to reflect the current cultural zeitgeist,” she previously told Refinery29. “[Shoppers are] dressing in styles that are a bit more utilitarian and pragmatic.”
Back in February, I sat front row as Cinq à Sept debuted a fitted denim Napoleon jacket, paired with a pussy-bow blouse on its Fall 2026 runway in NYC. While later in the season, R13 offered a super wearable take on the trend in longline and oversized silhouettes emblazoned with the same large, round buttons you’d expect on more traditional styles. Meanwhile, cool-girl brand EB Denim’s “Ford” Jacket feels like a more posh, updated version that has the same versatility as a classic black blazer.
When it comes to embracing the look IRL, the key is to keep it super simple and straightforward, slipping it over generally unfussy ensembles to let the military-inspired details do all of the talking. I paired the vintage, Ralph Lauren version that I found on Poshmark with dark-wash flared jeans and a Tabi ballet flat for a family dinner, like it was 2006.
Dua Lipa tends to take a more casual approach, wearing bright red and navy cropped styles by Ann Demeulemeester with denim and white T-shirts. Blackpink’s Jennie wore a custom Napoleon jacket by the brand for Lollapalooza in August, opting for a leather triangle bikini top underneath. Whereas, Brother Vellies creative director and founder of the 15 Percent Pledge, Aurora James took a more playful approach, styling her navy blue Napoleon-inspired Chanel Spring 2009 jacket with bloomer pants and mules—before ultimately slipping it over the classic white tee and denim combo, to show the secondhand style’s range.
Whether you opt for an affordable Napoleon jacket for everyday wear or are looking to invest in a luxury piece for your personal archive, there are a bunch of different styles available on the market to choose from, many of which will make even the simplest of ensembles that much more interesting. The endless styling options are just the icing on the proverbial cake.
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